It was picking up and it was really big and still scary. A lot of people weren’t making waves. It was supposed to be a south swell but it looked really west to me. It was kinda chunky from the wind so it made it dangerous. It wasn’t no inviting, beautiful Teahupo’o day like you see on the videos. It was more one of those angry ‘wanna hurt you, possibly kill you' type of days.
(Source: soundandsurfing, via opticallyaroused)